Unlike your bathrooms and bedrooms, your basement is a flexible space. Sometimes used as a home theater, your home gym, and even a storage space. The point is, just like the rest of the house, your basement needs planning too. Soundproofing a basement at the very start is a smart move for this exact reason. When it comes to soundproofing your basement, you should keep one thing in mind. You will need to install soundproofing accessories for the best results.
Table of Contents
Doors
When you spend a large chunk of your day in your basement, whether you are watching a movie or working out, extra noise can be a real bother. Just closing the door won’t be able to keep all the noise out. When the door is made soundproof, it blocks noises like the TV, radio, traffic, and even general conversations from entering your space. Plus, certain products also provide you with additional privacy, which is particularly useful if you convert your basement into an office space.
How to soundproof a door? It would be best to block any gaps letting air and sound through the door and surrounding frame. Install a pre-assembled soundproof door, or you can add mass to the existing door or the door area. And you can also utilize methods that create air pockets between the source of the noise and the room in which the door leads.
Sound sealing or weatherproofing for an air-tight seal
Airgaps need to be treated to ensure complete coverage and manage sound seeping in through the frame. It would be best if you did this on both sides and at the top of the frame. Weatherstripping requires little effort but, done properly; it’s an effective sound management method.
Most products use a peel-and-stick function. Surface preparation is required as the glue needs a clean area to ensure adhesion. An alcohol wash is not always required but is recommended. Installation should be done on the inner part of the frame.
You can use two methods for this:
Acoustic gasket
This is a foam rubber composite material that is a hollow “D” shape. When compressed, the gasket seals off and prevents airflow. If the gap is wide enough, you may end up with an air pocket which is just as effective as a soundproofing method.
Peel off the protective strip to expose the sticky side of the tape and then stick the gasket to the frame on all the edges as required.
Closed-cell foam
Acoustic-treated foam is the most commonly used material for this. It is compressed between the inner door frame and the door itself, preventing sound from traveling through.
Again peel-and-stick methods are commonly utilized for the application, which makes it easy to install.
A door sweep is used to block out air and sound coming in through the bottom of the door. This can reduce up to 70% of the air and sound traveling in. Once the sides and top of the door are treated, you will need to ensure an air-tight seal at the bottom of the door.
You will need to install this at the bottom of the door to block air traveling through the gap. The ones made out of silicon are flexible, and aside from blocking out air and sound, they can also help insulate a room.
Ceiling
Since usually the basement is located underground, the ceiling is a chief sound contributor. Particularly sounds and vibrations made by falling items on the floor, the vacuum cleaner, or the dishwasher and footsteps from the rooms overhead can become disturbing. Mechanically transmitted sound waves need a medium to travel. The ceiling, beams, and pillars provide the perfect opportunity for their transmission. The roof of your basement thus needs unique sound-insulating installations to tackle this issue.
Soundproof ceiling tiles are very good at absorbing sound. They can be hung using a metal frame, attached using special clips, or pasted over the regular ceiling with industrial adhesive. Although they’re not very easy to put up, their designs are much better and aesthetic.
Floor
Concrete floors in your basement directly affect the noise inside the enclosed space. A concrete bed increases the chances of the transmitted sounds reflecting off the surfaces and becoming auditory vibrations. With an increase in vibrations, the noise level goes up by quite a few notches. Even wooden or marble floors, though rarely seen in basements, will also have similar effects. Thus while soundproofing your basement, your ceiling will need special attention.
Covering with Acoustic Floor Underlayment
These materials can be placed underneath the flooring (tiles/carpet) and made of various substances. The higher the price, the better the soundproofing. They are sold in adhesive rolls and can be cut into pieces and nailed into the ground.
Walls
The walls of your basement constitute a significant sound conductor, especially when it comes to flanking noises. Integrating wall insulation in your basement plan can go a long way in reducing the overall noise considerably. Soundproofing barriers, even the smaller ones that have half-inch thickness, can be really of real help in such situations.
TotalMass is one of the more reliable companies that sell quality MLV. Being in the market since 2008, this Idaho-based firm doesn’t have much to offer other than your standard MLV, but what it sells is absolutely great.
Products Offered
TotalMass offers three kinds of MLV with different density based on your requirements.
They are :
- 0.5 pounds per square feet MLV
- 1 pound per square feet MLV
- the hard 2 pounds per square feet MLV
Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) applications
Mass is a critical component in sound control and works by simply stopping sound from vibrating through its structure. Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) is an effective material to use in lining soundproofing curtains or blankets.
At even just ½LB per sq ft, MLV can produce a 25 STC rating, which is 1/16” thickness. You can get up to 35 STC by using 2lb per sq ft and 1/4” thickness; however, this is slightly more difficult to work with.
HVAC And Pipes
The pipes and ductwork of your house are secret noise contributors. Air conditioners, plumbing pipes, exposed and open ducts, et cetera, generate a lot of noise which we generally overlook. Waves will get transmitted through your basement walls and ceiling simply because of the positioning of the room. Insulated pipework and plumbing can be your savior. Noise dampers do a great job blocking out the mechanical and vibratory sounds created by the said appliances.
Windows
When it comes to 360-degree noise insulation for your basements, you must attend to the windows. Open windows are significant sources of external noise entering your private space. But closing them isn’t enough to keep out the extra sounds completely. The noise that gets leaked inside can decrease the comfort level to a certain degree.
The ceiling, walls, doors, windows, and even your pipelines and ductwork can become unwanted noise sources and disturb your peace. While adding noise insulators to your basement, you must remember to install suitable accessories so that no extra sound gets reflected or resonated inside your basement. The first step for soundproofing your basement is initial planning. Inspect your ducts, air outlets, HVAC components, electrical wiring, et cetera, along with the obvious sources. Installing insulating materials around these features of the house is crucial and needs care. Measuring the door frames, windows, and walls, where the soundproofing articles will be attached, is the final step before installation starts.
Soundproofing curtains
These curtains can boast up to 20 STC ratings, about as much as a hollow-core door can produce by itself. However, this is only in the presence of an MLV or similar lining. Most curtains advertised as “Soundproof” curtains are merely light blocking, but they have limited effectiveness in blocking sound. Done right with the proper soundproof curtains will result in a noticeable difference in the amount of sound coming into an area. Even at a 10 STC rating, it will sound like half the noise as before.
Using soundproof curtains specifically designed to block out sound vibrations can be a useful option when you have mild sound issues. They can also use it in combination with your other efforts employed to enhance effectiveness.
You will need to install a curtain rail and aim for a 4″ overlapping width and height. You’ll also want to have the curtain hanging as flush to the wall as possible. This will avoid sound leaking out from behind the curtain.
National Consumer Center offers you a chance to get a $500 gift card to Amazon. The payouts are quick, and you can use the Gift Card to pay for some of your Amazon products.
Acoustic Caulking
The main requirement of making any room soundproof is to ensure that it is as airtight as possible. Even the tiniest holes and apertures can become a source of unwanted noise and din. Acoustic Caulking is the way to go here. Apply to the gaps in your doorways, window ledges, and frames to your pipelines and wiring. Sealing these small cracks and crevices is the first step to a soundproof basement. This non-inflammable, latex-based sealant is a one-stop solution to most miscellaneous crannies in your room.
Sound sealing or weatherproofing for an air-tight seal
Airgaps need to be treated to ensure complete coverage and manage sound seeping in through the frame. It would be best if you did this on both sides and at the top of the frame. Weatherstripping requires little effort but, done properly; it’s an effective sound management method.
Most products use a peel-and-stick function. Surface preparation is required as the glue needs a clean area to ensure adhesion. An alcohol wash is not always required but is recommended. Installation should be done on the inner part of the frame.
You can use two methods for this:
Acoustic gasket
This is a foam rubber composite material that is a hollow “D” shape. When compressed, the gasket seals off and prevents airflow. If the gap is wide enough, you may end up with an air pocket which is just as effective as a soundproofing method.
Peel off the protective strip to expose the sticky side of the tape and then stick the gasket to the frame on all the edges as required.
Closed-cell foam
Acoustic treated foam is the most commonly used material for this. It is compressed between the inner door frame and the door itself, preventing sound from traveling through.
Again peel-and-stick methods are commonly utilized for the application, which makes it easy to install.
Sound-insulated Walls And Ceilings
Also known as “dashboards,” these sound barriers are specially designed for your walls and ceilings. They are probably the ultimate key to creating an utterly soundproof basement. Hushboards function in two different ways. Their first job is to trap the noises in the cellar and contain them. Their second and probably the most critical function is to seize the house’s interior and exterior noises before they get a scope to enter your basement. Depending on the ease of construction, you can install these dashboards in two different ways:
Exterior Framework Insulation:
Exterior Framework Insulation refers to the process of installing Hushboards on the outer surface of your walls. These products are essentially either panels or sheets that are made of high-quality foam and offer two benefits. They not only absorb the noise but also provide thermal insulation. Your basement also stays cozy after a reduced level of sounds as the heat gets conserved.
To hide these installations from being visible, you must create a secondary wall. This construction is like building a room inside a room with the exact dimensions but smaller in size. Remember to leave sufficient space for ducts, vents, and airways, though. The only drawback to these exterior insulations is that the room area gets reduced, and there is a difference from the previous one. But if your basement is big enough, then this might be the best way to soundproof your room.
Interior Drywall Insulation:
Just like the Exterior Framework Insulation, drywalls can be installed inside the existing walls as well. The process is similar, and it is best if the basement is already under renovations. Once the remodeling is complete, installing Interior drywalls can get tricky.
Soundproofing The Basement Doors
If you look carefully, you’ll see that typically there is a slight gap between your door and the floor. It might seem narrow, but noise can escape or enter through this gap as well. The simplest and most effective way to tackle this issue is by installing adhesive perimeter seals for every doorway in the enclosed space. Adding sweeps to the door makes the openings airtight without restricting the function of the doors themselves. For extra caution, you can install sound-absorbing cotton panels and fiberglass shields as well.
A door sweep is used to block out air and sound coming in through the bottom of the door. This can reduce up to 70% of the air and sound traveling in. Once the sides and top of the door are treated, you will need to ensure an air-tight seal at the bottom of the door.
Soundproofing The Basement Ceiling
As said earlier, the ceiling transmits the maximum mechanical and other sounds in your basement. Limiting the amount of noise entering your room can be done in several ways. The best way is to install foam or fiberglass panels directly onto the ceiling. Cotton and polyurethane acoustic panels also do a brilliant job of absorbing and blocking the extra noise. If your basement is large and spacious, then installing ceiling baffles can be of great help. Ceiling baffles essentially decrease the intensity of airborne sounds. Baffles them to block the vibratory and mechanical sounds transmitted through the ceiling.
Conclusion
When you redesign or remodel a house, it is crucial to remember that soundproofing any portion of your home will need prior planning. Installation becomes more manageable when the panels, sheets, baffles, and sealants are installed and applied during the renovation. Currently, a wide array of new and innovative soundproofing systems are available in the market. What’s more, they can be installed quickly and are also really affordable. So if you haven’t made your basement soundproof yet, hurry now!
Good luck and happy soundproofing!