When you close your car door, does it sound clanky? This may indicate that the damping could be worn out. Car doors are manufactured from sheet metal. This material usually produces a naturally high frequency.
Looking after your vehicle and keeping it in the best condition is always a wise move. Sound damping is one such way that many people rightly consider.
In this post, I’ll cover the steps to take if you’re looking at sound damping a car door yourself.
First, you’ll have to remove the door panel. Then apply the sound damping material to the inner sheet metal skin of the door. After that, the outer skin of the door and finally the inner part of the vinyl panel itself. Replace the door panel, and you’re done.
Table of Contents
What is sound damping in cars?
Soundproofing is a combination of management processes, and terminology is often misunderstood. Sound damping is just one method used when managing sound.
Car doors usually produce 40-300 Hz. This means approximately 40 to 300 vibrations per second. Each vibration is the completion of a single cycle of a wave of energy. In this case, sound energy. Untreated metal surfaces on a vehicle allow sustained resonate. It vibrates, creating noise through the car.
Damping dissipates energy in the form of vibration. Done right, it can stop the build-up and radiation of sound. Sound damping is done to reduce the noise traveling into an area by preventing vibration.
There are two types of damping—extensional and constrained layers. Sound damping in vehicles uses an extensional damping system. This is particularly useful when used on lightweight materials like sheet metal used on cars.
The impact on the vibrating material extends and compresses. The damping material converts this from the sound you hear into heat energy. It’s a small enough amount of heat to go unnoticed. Damping is measured at the rate at which a material dissipates sound energy and converts it into heat energy.
Treating over 30% of a surface area will allow you to notice a significant difference in the noise level coming into your car. It also improves the sound quality of your speakers and reduces heat through insulation.
How much damping do you already have?
Unfortunately, most cars don’t come with good quality sound damping, and it deteriorates over time, especially if it’s open-cell acoustic foam rubber. Of course, the other popular reason for sound damping is that it greatly improves the quality of your car stereo system.
Applying sound damping
The application process depends on the material you choose. Most damping comes with self-adhesive, which makes it fairly simple to install. It functions on a peel-and-stick application method.
The challenge may be in the removal and re-installation of the panels. See my detailed post on applying sound damping.
Products to consider include Soundskins, Hushmat, and Dynamat. I’ve reviewed these in another post. You should have a look here at these comparisons to decide which product is best for you.
You should check your car’s manual first. For around $20, you can find a detailed version. The easiest way to find the hard copy repair manual for your vehicle is to select Repair Manuals by Make and Model. Or you can get an electronic version. They both have all sorts of instructions and guides, whether it’s for customization, maintenance, repair, or even simply just learning about the inner workings of a particular vehicle.
What you’ll need
A panel removal tool kit is required for the panel pins. This is because they avoid breakage of the pins during the removal of them. It’s also useful for prying away the panels without doing damage to your vehicle’s paint job.
Aluminum tape is also needed. You can patch up the parts where there might be gaps left or use the tape to give your application a clean finish.
Wear a good pair of workman’s gloves while working with the material. The foil edges are sharp and cut through your skin. The glue is also best avoided.
You can use metal shears instead of scissors for products like Dynamat and others. You can also use a switchblade.
Use the correct seam sealer (if required) to avoid it setting and causing ripples on your trunk lid. In addition, the seam sealer should maintain some flex when dries.
You may want to get a set of additional Bumper Retainer Clips, just in case you damage some or if you find a few missing already.
Use a portable light system to make it easier for you to see.
National Consumer Center offers you a chance to get a $500 gift card to Amazon. The payouts are quick, and you can use the Gift Card to pay for some of your Amazon products.
Sound damping your car door
Of course, depending on your vehicle, the process of removing your door panel will vary.
Here’s a general guide to follow. Before you begin removal, you’ll need to examine your door panel closely. Start by looking for the most obvious fasteners—panel screws, plastic caps concealing screws, clips, etc. Then map out more or less what you need to remove. Finally, check that you have all the necessary tools on hand. This can be a one-person job, but an extra set of hands wouldn’t hurt.
I would suggest you document the process. Take a video or even just a couple of pics as you go along. That way, if you get stuck during reinstallation, you can always go back to see what needs to be where. Also, I’d be happy to share it here to help others.
Begin with the obvious panel screws. Take your time when removing these to avoid breaking any.
Small triangular window
You may need to remove the triangular clip by the window which houses the tweeter speaker if you have it. Using the trim removal kit, you should be able to pry it off. Although this doesn’t directly hold the door panel in place, it will prevent the panel from sliding up when you need to later.
Door handle
Then if you haven’t already removed the door handle, do that next. Look for a plastic cap concealing a screw. A Phillips screwdriver should do the trick. You may have to deal with the locking mechanism, but you can do that later.
If you have a manual window winder, you’ll need a pick tool to remove the locking pin. First, slide the tool from the bottom of the plastic housing of the winder. Then hook the pin with the head of the pick. Finally, gently pull the pin out. The winder should come free after that. Replace the pin once you’ve taken off the winder for safekeeping; also, for reinstallation, you’ll only have to push it back onto the window gear, and it will lock into place.
You’ll find panel pins around the edge of the door that need to be released. You’ll need to use the panel clip tool to free the panel from the door around the edges. If you have a minimal gap between working with you can use a small flat head screwdriver with tape over the head (to protect the finishing) to widen the gap. Then you’ll be able to find the pressure points, which is where the panel clips are situated. Now with the panel removal tool, you can release them.
Wiring
After that, you should be able to lift the panel up and away from the door, but you need to unclip any wiring and deal with the locking mechanism before you can completely remove the panel.
The wiring should be simple enough. Use a small flathead screwdriver to release the plastic plug if you cannot achieve this with your fingers.
Door lock
The door locking mechanism needs care. If you accidentally bend the cable wiring, it will be a problem. Pull the cable housing back and off its position, and the front of the cable should come free with the slack.
By now you should be able to completely remove the door panel.
Behind the door panel
Now you should see the factory-installed foam or plastic cover on the outer shell of the door. Remove it to reveal the inner door shell.
You’ll also need to remove and disconnect the door speaker. You’re going to place some of the damping material directly behind the speaker housing later.
Cleaning
Give the surface area (Inner and outer shell) a good clean using rubbing alcohol. If you’re using self-adhesive damping (and you absolutely should be), the surface must be clean and free of oil and grease for the adhesive to be effective.
Inner door shell
Turn your attention to the speaker area mentioned earlier. You can only get to the inner door shell through the speaker mounting hole. Start by cutting a square or round piece of the damping. This should be about 2″ to 3″ larger than the hole itself. Then install the damping directly behind the speaker mount against the inner door shell.
On the opposite side, there should be another gap in the outer door shell. This is usually where the door locking system lies. Again cut squares from the damping material and apply them to the inner door shell. Be careful not to stick down any of the locking or window mechanisms.
This video also explains how you can use a cardboard template and maximize its efficiency. He uses SoundSkins, which is one of the more preferred materials. You can see a comparison I did on this product here.
The outer door shell
Try to cover as much surface area as you can but remember sound damping only needs to be installed on +30% to be effective.
This area is easier to work with, and you should aim to cover as much of the shell as you can. Be mindful of not covering the panel pin/screws entry holes.
The best advice
First, take a sheet of clear plastic and stick it to the outer door shell. Then trace out the area to be covered by the damping material. Make sure you mark the holes where the panel pins are going to go back into. Next, take the plastic, place it onto the damping material, and cut it out according to your trace. Check it first before applying the damping by placing it against the door and seeing if your cut-out aligns correctly.
Before you begin on the door panel, you should estimate to see that there is enough space.
Aim to apply damping to around 60% off the area and don’t forget to give it a good clean before you begin.
Reinstallation
Begin by connecting the speaker and mounting it back into place. Then the wiring and the door locking mechanism. After this, you should be ready to fit the panel itself back into place. Align the clips at the top, and then push down till the panel is in place. Use the palm of your hand to snap the panel pins back in place. Lastly, fit in all the other parts, screws, panel pins, and plastic clips.
Sound travels through the sheet metal surfaces in your vehicle. Your floor covers the bulk of this. Sound damping this area will significantly reduce noise traveling through your car.
I’ve gathered this information by researching many different sources of information. Sometimes it isn’t easy to find helpful information, but I’m sure you’ll find this useful.
- Firstly remove the front and back seats, the center console, and the floor carpet of your car
- Then prepare the surface area
- After that, apply Dynamat
- Finally, reverse the steps of removal
Installing Dynamat on the floor of your vehicle will
- reduce engine noise
- reduce wind noise
- extend and improve the performance of your vehicle
- improve your car audio sound system (less noise for your car speakers to contend with)
The process for removing the carpet varies from vehicle to vehicle, so I’ve just looked at the most common setups. You’ll need to check your specific vehicle’s user manual and scrutinize the areas yourself.
You should check your car’s manual first. For around $20, you can find a detailed version. The easiest way to find the hard copy repair manual for your vehicle is to select Repair Manuals by Make and Model. Or you can get an electronic version. They both have all sorts of instructions and guides, whether it’s for customization, maintenance, repair, or even simply just learning about the inner workings of a particular vehicle.
What you’ll need
A panel removal tool kit is required for the panel pins. This is because they avoid breakage of the pins during the removal of them. It’s also useful for prying away the panels without doing damage to your vehicle’s paint job.
Aluminum tape is also needed. You can patch up the parts where there might be gaps left or use the tape to give your application a clean finish.
Wear a good pair of workman’s gloves while working with the material. The foil edges are sharp and cut through your skin. The glue is also best avoided.
You can use metal shears instead of scissors for products like Dynamat and others. You can also use a switchblade.
Use the correct seam sealer (if required) to avoid it setting and causing ripples on your trunk lid. In addition, the seam sealer should maintain some flex when dries.
You may want to get a set of additional Bumper Retainer Clips, just in case you damage some or if you find a few missing already.
Use a portable light system to make it easier for you to see.
National Consumer Center offers you a chance to get a $500 gift card to Amazon. The payouts are quick, and you can use the Gift Card to pay for some of your Amazon products.
First things first
Start by disconnecting the battery to avoid damage to the airbag. Then remove all the items from the car. Lastly, prepare an area that you will use to keep the items you remove (Seats, console, etc.)
Removing the seats, belts, and trims
Front seats
Begin by pushing the seat all the way back to access the two front bolts. You may find plastic clips covering these bolts. You may hold these clips in place with panel pins, but sometimes they have a screw keeping them in place. Then once the clips are off, you should see the bolt or bolts. Remove these bolts, then pull the seat as far forward as possible. Now the back of the seat may have up to 6 bolts (3 on either side). Again there may be clips concealing these bolts. Finally, following the same process, remove the bolts holding the back of the seat in place.
Front seat Safety belt
The safety belt anchor is attached to the bottom of the seat and will need to be removed first. It is usually concealed within a plastic cover. Remove the cover and the bolt.
Front seat wiring
As mentioned in the beginning, you should have removed the battery terminal. If you lift the seat from the back, you should be able to see the wiring. Then carefully unplug the clamps that hold the wiring in place. The wires are held with a plastic clip to the bottom of the seat. Remove that carefully, then remove the seat through the front door.
Backseats
Cushion
First, you may need to remove the bolts and/or screws holding the cushion in place. You’ll find bolts or a single bolt positioned in the middle of the seat. Use your hand to feel between the top half of the seat and the cushion. Removing this bolt will release the rear cushion pin. You may also find screws at the bottom of the cushion which need to be removed as well.
There is a pin at the back of the cushion and two pins in the front that lock the cushion in place. You can remove these pins from their corresponding slots. You’ll find these roughly in line with the middle of the passenger seat and the middle of the driver’s seat. Begin by lifting the cushion from the front.
You may need to use a lever to achieve this by placing it underneath the cushion and gently lifting the pins on either side. It would be best to release the pin at the back once you lift the seat up and forward. It’s not always required to remove the seatbelt anchor in this step. Lastly, thread the seatbelt clips through the cushion and remove the cushion from the car.
Top half
First, drop the seats forward, and you should find four bolts that release the top half of the backseats that need to be removed. Sometimes they’re covered by a carpeting trim. You may have to remove the plastic clips holding the trim in place first. Then remove all the bolts. Finally, you may need to remove the seatbelt from the guide to avoid it snagging.
Side cushion panels
Once you’ve removed the top half and cushion of the back seat, you may still have side cushion panels in place. These are fitted with a bolt at the bottom that releases them. Loosen these bolts, and you should be able to slide the panel up and out.
Centre console
Begin by removing the gear stick head unit. You can do this by unscrewing it, or you may find a release clip. After that, remove the gear stick cover. You may need to shift the gear stick around to achieve this. Use a flashlight to see where the pins are holding.
Next, remove the plastic or rubber matting in the armrest compartment and cup holders. There should be a set of screws or bolts underneath that need to be removed.
Underneath the handbrake should also be a set of screws usually covered by a clip. Using the trim removal kit, take off the clip and loosen the screws.
Then check the side and back of the armrest compartment for bolts or screws. If you have a cupholder, this should be removed, which may reveal another set of screws. The sides of the front part of the console also may have plastic clips or screws. Remove all of these as well.
After that, the plastic/rubber housing around the gear stick should clip off, revealing another set of screws. This part will need patience as you will need to move the console around until you find the right angle to remove it. Finally, you should be able to unclip the console and remove it entirely from the car.
Seatbelt
It’s usually not required to remove the backseat safety belts. The front seat safety belts are anchored to the floor. There should be another plastic clip covering a bolt. Remove these.
Plastic/Metal trimming
Some of the side trims or kickboards will need to be removed to get to your car flooring. You will need to inspect the panels first. Sometimes you’ll find the weather stripping covering the panel. This needs to be removed.
First, check for any exposed screws holding the trim in place and remove these. If you do not find screws check the panel to see where the clips are positioned by moving it around a little to establish the pressure. At the pressure point, you should find the clip underneath the panel. Then using the panel removal tool, slide the head under the panel and gently push down on the lever to lift it. Do this around all the door frames (Where the carpet is being held in place). Finally, if needed, unplug all the wiring carefully.
Using the proper tool here will avoid you breaking the panel pins which you need when replacing everything.
You may also find a pedal plate holding the carpet in place, which needs to be removed by loosening the bolts.
Rear deck
Adding Dynamat to the rear deck will improve the sound quality of your car speakers. However, this is not required to remove with a floor installation. You may want to consider it while you’re at it.
Removing the flooring carpet
If you followed the steps above, you should be ready to remove the carpet. Do a last check to ensure the carpet is loosened from all clips, screws, and bolts. If this is the first time you’re removing the carpet, you may find the foam sticking to the carpet and the car floor.
The best way to remove the carpet is to roll or fold it as you go along. Start from the front under the steering wheel where the pedals are. Then move to the front passenger side and then up to the gear. These are the trickiest areas to get out. Next, thread through all the wiring carefully. Once you’re done in the front, your carpet should be folded or rolled halfway. Then continue rolling the carpet up to the back seat. Finally, remove it completely from the back car door. You may want to give it a good dusting and vacuum it whilst it’s out.
Preparing the floor surface
The surface area needs to be cleaned before you apply the Dynamat. First, use a vacuum to remove any loose dirt. Then use a cloth with rubbing alcohol to clean off any oil and grease marks.
Installing DynaMat
The best product for this project is Dynamat Extreme. Dynamat Extreme is a sound damping material and comes in 36 Sq. Ft (9 X 18″ X32″). It is designed to reduce resonance and vibration on metal surfaces which in turn reduces road noise. For a more effective solution, you would want to add a layer of sound deadening material. Dynamat offers DynaPad, a Dynamat sound deadening material that can be placed on top of the Dynamat Xtreme (amongst some forums, they go as far as recommending two layers of Dynamat and then Dynapad). This will all depend on your requirements and whether or not you have space under your carpet.
Damping material and comes in 36 Sq. Ft (9 X 18″ X32″). It is designed to reduce resonance and vibration on metal surfaces which in turn reduces road noise. For a more effective solution, you would want to add a layer of sound deadening material. Dynamat offers DynaPad, a Dynamat sound deadening material that can be placed on top of the Dynamat Xtreme (amongst some forums, they go as far as recommending two layers of Dynamat and then Dynapad). This will all depend on your requirements and whether or not you have space under your carpet.
See the detailed installation guide of Dynamat
Re-installation
Follow the steps of disassembly.
Conclusion
By applying Dynamat to your car floor, you may find other areas becoming weak points, and you might want to address them also. Your car’s door panels should be the next to be addressed and then your trunk area. See my post on Car Door Damping DIY and How to soundproof your trunk.
So whether you have a hot rod or just your regular family car, installing Dynamat will afford you a more quiet journey.
Good luck and happy soundproofing!
Once you’re completed damping the doors you should move on to these next
Is damping and deadening the same thing
Sound damping and sound deadening are the same things. The terminology produces some confusion. The term is sometimes spelled as dampening but remains to be the same material.
What is sound damping in cars?
Soundproofing is a combination of management processes, and terminology is often misunderstood. Sound damping is just one method used when managing sound.
Car doors usually produce 40-300 Hz. This means approximately 40 to 300 vibrations per second. Each vibration is the completion of a single cycle of a wave of energy. In this case, sound energy. Untreated metal surfaces on a vehicle allow sustained resonate. It vibrates, creating noise through the car.
Damping dissipates energy in the form of vibration. Done right, it can stop the build-up and radiation of sound. Sound damping is done to reduce the noise traveling into an area by preventing vibration.
There are two types of damping—extensional and constrained layers. Sound damping in vehicles uses an extensional damping system. This is particularly useful when used on lightweight materials like sheet metal used on cars. The impact on the vibrating material extends and compresses. The damping material converts this from the sound you hear into heat energy. It is a small enough amount for the heat to go unnoticed.
Damping is measured at the rate at which a material dissipates sound energy and converts it into heat energy. Treating over 30% of a surface area will allow you to notice a significant difference in the noise level coming into your car. It also improves the sound quality of your speakers and reduces heat through insulation.
Conclusion – The typical results
As you may have seen in the Cymbal test video, the expected result will be the drastic reduction of sound resonance. The absence of vibration will give your sound system more depth and reduce the effects of road and wind noise from entering the vehicle through the door.
Good luck and happy soundproofing!